Until yesterday, the Bellini—a cocktail/nuclear device equal parts Champagne and peach juice—did not appeal to us. We’re more Jack on the rocks types. Then we swaggered into Cipriani at 55 Wall Street, whose owners have gained fame for refusing to serve food critics, and were surprised. We are not saying the fruity cocktail is worth $16 a glass—few cocktails are—just that this drink is pungent and slightly amazing, provided you get it, as we did, freshly-mixed.